| Cats do not "run away" or
"stray." They investigate new places and find themselves trapped, they get
lost if driven away from their territory, they are spirited off by
circumstances beyond their control, they become ill or injured and creep
away to a quiet dark place. But they rarely voluntarily leave their home,
even if badly treated. It is imperative when a cat turns up missing to
begin an aggressive search immediately. Your cat's life could depend on
it. Try to think like a cat, your cat specifically. Look around and try to
imagine what could have happened to account for the disappearance and help
you look in the right places. Cats are excellent hiders. Look first in
your immediate area. Check the house carefully. Then check again, even in
those spaces where you are certain a cat could not fit (chances are, they
can). Listen for sounds of distress (cats explore weird spaces and can be
fatally attracted to dark places and to vertical spaces - look behind the
water heater, for example, or in that closet or cupboard or attic you
accessed a while back). If there have been changes in the environment
lately, with new places for a cat to explore, look there. Don't forget to
look in your own back garden in case the cat has been injured or got stuck
somewhere.
Then go door-to-door, taking a pad and pen with you to write down your
name and number. Better still, first make up a quick poster with a brief
description, a clear photo, and the cat's name, your name, phone number
and run copies at the nearest photocopy center - be sure to make your
phone number (or at least the "lost cat" part) prominent enough to be seen
by a passing car.
Ask your neighbours to look and listen for a cat in their area. Ask
them to check their garage or other outbuildings, look in their trees,
check their cellar. And ask them to call your cat's name and listen
carefully for signs of distress. Leave your poster or name and phone
number with them and a description and name of the cat. Tell them you may
check back with them later. Then ask permission to enter their property to
look for yourself (the cat might be too frightened to respond to a
stranger). Most people will gladly cooperate.
Ask neighbours if they have noticed a "new" cat in the area, even if
they think it belongs to someone else. Sometimes people "find" cats or
kittens and decide to keep them, either assuming they are "stray" or that
they are not likely to be claimed by an owner. Children sometimes "find"
new pets in this way and carry them home, where the cat is either taken in
or put outside by the parent to find its way home again.
Don't rule out neighbour malice. Neighbours, even landlords, sometimes
snatch cats and dump them in another neighbourhood or worse. It is worth
visiting Animal Shelters out of your area. It is also worth asking
neighbours if they know of anyone in the area who might be trapping cats
or who has a history or the potential of wishing cats harm. Be diplomatic.
Check the streets and alleyways. An injured animal may not be able to
get home or may choose to withdraw into a quiet place. The sooner the cat
can be given emergency care the better its chances of survival.
Sometimes cats climb into moving vans or parked cars and are not found
immediately. Was such a vehicle in your area at the time of disappearance?
Ask neighbourhood children if they have seen anything. Children can be
a great source of neighbourhood goings-on. Talk to your Postman and give
him/her a flyer or a photo with the cat's name and your name and phone
number on the back.
Put up posters around the neighbourhood. Leave posters at Veterinary
Clinics, local shelters (even those out of your area). At the vet's ask if
an injured cat was brought in as a "stray" and ask for a description. Vets
will stabilise injured cats before they are taken into the animal shelter.
Place a "lost cat" ad in your local paper. Also check the "found" ads
daily. If you offer a reward, beware the hostage-taker or bogus calls.
Check your Council Animal Control frequently (every other day or at
least every third day) and be prepared to go down and look at the animals
in the kennels; It is possible that your cat is there, but not reported to
the owner (by error, not design). Your description may not be sufficient
to help an attendant identify the cat over the phone. Leave a photo at the
front desk and ask to visit the quarantine area for sick and injured
animals (sometimes overflow animals are caged there as well). Ask if any
overflow cats are being held in the dog area. Also, sadly, review the
dead-on-arrival list. If the cat had a collar i.d., its chances of being
returned to you if found are much great, but don't count on it; the collar
could have been lost or even removed. Micro Chipping is much more
reliable. Bear in mind that some people are loathe to take a found animal
to the shelter right away and will keep it for several days or longer
before turning it in.
Consider using a trained tracking dog. Contact local obedience class
teachers and inquire about hiring someone with a trained tracker dog that
is trained to locate humans and animals by scent.
Don't give up. Keep looking in those same old spots, calling and
listening. Try new spots; enlarge your search-area to the next area
outside your local area or the next after that. Don't be embarrassed and
try not to let yourself become paralysed with grief and anxiety. Cats are
tough customers and can last many days without food or water. They also
can hide very well, and may not be rescued by animal control or an
individual for many weeks after their initial disappearance.
If you've moved recently (within the year) go back and check your old
area. If your cat had established a territory in your old area they may
attempt to go back - or - they may just be homesick for their old abode!
Don't give up the search too soon. Don't give up as soon as the cat
fails to return home or after only a few days and don't just wait for the
cat to come back or not. Keep looking and keep checking. Lost cats have
been known to turn up 12 months later! |